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Speaking the Sheep Lingo!
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APPAREL WOOL: Wool suitable for manufacture into apparel fabrics. BELLIES: Short and often defective wool from belly of sheep. BLACK WOOL: Fleeces from sheep containing gray, brown
or black wool. BRAID: Long, coarse, lustrious wool. BREAK: Wool that is abnormally weaker in one spot along the
fiber length. BREECH (OR BRITCH): Coarse hair fibers on lower hind legs. BULK GRADE: The largest percentage of grade
in a lot of original-bagged wool or the major grade of a fleece. CARBONIZING: Removal of burrs from wool by immersion
in dilute sulphuric acid. CARPET: Wools too heavy and coarse to be made into apparel; suitable for carpets
and rugs. CLOTHING: The shorter length wools within a grade. COLOR: In wool trade usage, this refers to the actual
color of the wool; a bright white to cream is most desirable. CORE-TESTING: The coring of bales or bags of wool
for the determination of yield and clean content. CRIMP: The natural waviness of the wool fiber; it varies with
the diameter of the fiber. CROSS BREED: A sheep or the wool from a sheep resulting from the cross of two different
breeds. FELTING: The matting together of wool fibers. FIBER DIAMETER: Measured by the latest in computer technology
and reported in microns. FLEECE: The wool from a single sheep in the shorn grease state. FLEECE WOOL: Usually
all fleeces grown in the states east of the Mississippi and Missouri rivers. FRENCH COMBING: Wool of medium staple
length, suitable for combing. GRADE: The classification system used to describe grease wools. The grades are: Fine -- 64s, 70s, 80s; Half-blood -- 60s, 62s; Three-eights-blood -- 56s, 58s; Quarter-blood -- 50s, 54s; and Low-quarter-blood
-- 46s, 48s. GRADING: The classification of fleeces according to grade and length. GREASE WOOL: Wool as it is shorn
from the sheep, before any processing. HANDLE (or HAND): The actual feel of wool. HANK: A 560-yard unit of wool
yarn wound on a reel. KEMP: Brittle, chalky white, weak fiber found as an impurity in the fleece. LANOLIN: Wool
grease; this substance, sometimes called "yolk," is a secretion from the sebaceous glands of the sheep. LOCK: A small, approximately finger-size bit of wool that tends to stay together when shorn from the sheep. NOILS:
The short and sometimes defective wool fibers removed in the combing of top. PELT: The skin of the sheep with wool still
attached to the skin. PULLEDWOOL: Wool removed from the skins of slaughter sheep. RANGE WOOL: Wool grown on large
ranches, distinct from wool grown on small farms; usually termed Territory wool. RAW WOOL: Grease wool in natural state
before scouring. SCOURING: The actual separation of dirt, grease, and foreign matter from grease wool; this is usually
done in a lukewarm, mildly alkaline solution, followed by a rinse. SECOND CUTS: Short tufts of wool cut at least twice
by the shearing. SHEARING: The removal of wool from the sheep by the use of power clippers or blade shears. SHRINKAGE:
The weight raw wool loses when scoured, expressed as a percentage of the original weight. SORTING: The separation of
the whole fleece into parts, as well as removing the off-sorts. SOUNDNESS: Freedom of the fiber from breaks and tenderness;
relates to strength. STAPLE: This term refers to the length of a lock of shorn wool; in the trade, "staple"
refers to the longer length wools within a grade. TENDER: Wool that is weak throughout the entire length of the fiber. TOP: A continuous strand of partially manufactured wool, which previously has been scoured, carded, and combed; an
intermediate stage in the process of worsted yarn. TYING: After the wool is shorn it is rolled into a neat bundle and
tied with a paper fleece tie. VEGETABLE MATTER: Any material of plant origin found in the fleece, such as burrs, stickers,
chaff and seed heads. WASTINESS: The loss of fiber in carding and combing due to vegetable matter, weakness or tenderness
or shortness of fiber. WOOLEN: A system of processing that utilizes the shorter length wools within a grade. WORSTED:
A system of processing that utilizes the longer length wools within a grade. YIELD: The amount of clean wool that is
derived from grease wool in the scouring process; is expressed as a percentage.
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